Haryono Setiadi, Dion Lee and Emma Mulholland are three very different designers. What they share is youth, and the particular perspective that youth brings. Granted, Lee is more established than the others, but it’s easy to forget that despite Lee’s successes – runway shows in New York, Woolmark prize winner, stockists including Net-A-Porter and David Jones – he is still only 27 years old. Read on for our review of their shows.
Music: Ocean sounds were mixed in a collaboration between DJ Will Pyett, creative director Mark Vassallo and Haryono Setiadi.
Hair: Sleek, ironed-flat hair in a half-up, half-down style, sprayed orange.
Beauty: Matching the hair, lips were coloured with a tangerine stain. Ryan Storer ear cuffs adorned the ears.
Key look: The show’s closer: a burnt orange and sky-blue origami pleated dress.
Overall feel: Fluid. Setiadi has jettisoned his affinity for structure and body-consciousness, this season favouring a fluid, mercurial silhouette achieved with organza bustle pleating and oblique rubber overlays. The colour palette – all washed-out, watercolour oranges and blues – was similarly soft.
In his own words: On his muses for the collection, Setiadi told us “I’m continually drawn to strong women, Rooney Mara has been a source of inspiration for SS14/15, as were my sisters. I spent Christmas with them and it really reinforced what important assets they are for me to draw from and be inspired by.”
Dion Lee Line II
Music: An original mix by Johnny Seamore.
Hair: A half-loop knot, with strands tucked into collars, the kind of thing all the cool girls wear on the weekend.
Beauty: Barely-there makeup, relaxed and natural.
Key look: A relaxed trouser suit, slit open along the back seam, cast in Dion Lee’s signature lavender blue.
Overall feel: Just right. Lee has made a career out of being insanely on the pulse, combined with a high level of technical proficiency. The old Fratelli Fresh site on Danks Street was the perfect backdrop for Lee’s debut runway shop for his diffusion line, which featured cool-girl separates executed impeccably. Denim made an appearance (as shirt/skirt hybrids), as did oversized shirting and one or two party dresses for when the Dion Lee girl decides to dress up.
Music: Dolly Parton’s 9 to 5 (of course!)
Hair: Pageboy hairpieces in pastel colours sat on top of the models’ natural, wavy tresses – half business half party.
Beauty: Lilac lipstick.
Key look: A sleeveless tuxedo dress emblazoned with a safety-pin print, accessorised with a patch-branded briefcase.
Overall feel: The new ‘after-five’ wear. The cool kids of Emma Mulholland are itching to get out of their workwear and straight to the beach as soon as it hits five o’clock. Her usual array of shapes – skin-tight leggings with oversized T-shirts, sheer shift dresses over ribbed bodysuits or printed swimwear – were this season cast in creamy Day-Glo pastels. Funky, lighthearted and just a little bit businesslike, this collection shows that Mulholland is only getting better with experience.
In her own words: On showing for the second time, Mulholland told us, “It’s cool! It’s a bit scary too because I always want to move forward and keep growing and getting better, so obviously the pressure is on for this year.”
Mercedes-Benz Australian Fashion Laureate
A celebration of Australian fashion, the Australian Fashion Laureate is awarded to those deemed to have had a truly significant impact on the local industry. Previous winners include Carla Zampatti, Collette Dinnigan and Australian Fashion Week founder Simon Lock. This year the award – voted by industry insiders and supported by Destination New South Wales and Mercedes-Benz – went to Zimmermann, in recognition of its incredible brand presence and organic overseas expansion. 2014 marked the first year further categories were established for womenswear, menswear, emerging and retailer. The winners – Dion Lee, Arthur Galan, Christopher Esber and Scanlan & Theodore respectively – represent some of Australia’s most promising and respected talent.