“Free the nipple” was the mantra behind Tome’s ready-to-wear fall/winter 17 show at New York Fashion Week over the weekend. It was just one of many political messages stitched into the fabric of the collection.
Ryan Lobo and Ramon Martin set out to prove a point in New York on Sunday: women’s bodies are still under attack in 2017. So the duo designed with an hourglass figure in mind.
Casting plus-size models such as Candice Huffine was just the beginning. Political statements about the female body were woven into the actual garments. The designers took inspiration from the art of Dorothea Tanning, Alina Szapocznikow and Louise Bourgeois; disembodied female limbs and torsos appeared in outline on tailored jackets and dresses. The Gorilla Fur knitwear – made from Peruvian alpaca fleece – was hand-knitted by women’s collectives in the Andes.
Another surprise was the recurrence of past designs to make a point – or more precisely, a stand – about waste in the fashion industry.
As for what came down the runway, classic white shirting was reimagined with oversized lapels peeping out from beneath tuxedo-style suits. Corset-style blouses and fake-fur coats with Swarovski banana detailing hung above trousers that were fluid and roomy. Hints of metallic broke up an otherwise neutral palette. Fall/winter 17 also marked the second collaboration between Tome and accessories label The Daily Edited.
Lobo and Marin took their bow in T-shirts emblazoned with women’s rights slogans such as “I stand with Planned Parenthood”.
This is a time of global protest, Tome says. And they’re a part of it.