Boki is wearing a black, light-weight wool suit with a herringbone shirt in white, silk pocket square and dark teal knitted silk tie all by Tom Ford. (All available at Harrolds.)
Using a broad and heavy weighted tie like Tom Ford’s knitted silk tie will ensure a full knot, even if, as in this case the knot is the four in the hand. This knot gives a perfect suit an asymmetrical nonchalance needed to break the tension. A Full Windsor is for footballers and car dealers.
A pocket square or even a handkerchief for the gentleman in all of us is the second most important embellishment after your tie. Wear flamboyantly with a suit like Boki or folded, slim and controlled for a Don Draper effect.
Oversize notch lapel with boutonniere (should never be a keyhole buttonhole) for formal occasions. The lapel should have a gentle roll from the top button
2 button jacket with a ticket pocket is a great day to night option and adds to the foppish nature of this luxury suit in every way. Adhering to the ‘more is more’ philosophy, the flaps of the pockets are larger than your average suit.
What are the rules for buttoning your suit jacket? Sometimes, always, never, in a three button configuration. In a two button, as it is here, the top is always buttoned, leaving the bottom undone. When you sit down, undo you jacket. Always.
In this setting a French or Double Cuff shirt is your go-to choice. A ¼ inch drop from jacket hem to shirt sleeve is the traditional length, but once again to send home the exaggerated nature of the Tom Ford style Boki has allowed for almost ½ inch. A subtle extravagance.
Don’t ruin your excellent choices in wardrobe by poor choices in accessories. Tradition meets technology with the Japanese made, leather iPad case by Superior Labor available at Up There.
A good suit and tailor should give you strength and silhouette where you might not have it. Here the shoulders are strong and confident, the waist gently pulled to suggest a tailored fit and cleverly acknowledge the canvassed chest.
Traditionally, a tailored suit is made without belt loops, instead using side tabs to adjust for optimum fit and drape. A belt will cut the line in half destroying the length and silhouette a good tailor has created in the first place.
Trouser Length is crucial. The hem of these trousers has bucked the current trend of shorter trousers instead opting for a longer with soft break at the shoe. Anymore and it will look unfinished and unprofessional, any less and the desired foppish luxury effect is lost.
The correct and best choice of shoe may go unnoticed, but the wrong will not. If you can’t finish with a great pair of shoes, then all is lost. These Andrew Macdonald handmade shoes in Cordovan Leather from Beggar Man Thief ground this suit in subtle luxury. Wear a shoe that helps your silhouette by avoiding anything with a square or pointy toe. A quality shoe can always be repaired and last many years
Tom Ford Suit in lightweight black wool
Tom Ford White self-herringbone shirt
Tom Ford woven silk tie all from Harrolds
Andrew Macdonald Cordovan leather lace up from Beggar Man Thief
Superior Labor Leather iPad case from Up There
In a slightly more contemporary setting, Boki wears the slim fit Harrolds brand suit and shirt. Underneath is an Alexander Olch check wool tie, a Paul Smith floral print silk scarf, (all at Harrolds) Barton Perreira tortoise shell aviator sunglasses and Open Ceremony tri-colour brogues (available at Beggar Man Thief)
Tailoring your suit is as important as the suit you buy. If you can’t afford a tailor made suit, make sure you have the suit you buy fitted where it counts. Sleeves, waist and hem. A gentle pinching of the sides can create shape, where needed, but any more altering will start to affect the suit itself and the desired fall and drape will be lost. Not to mention that by this point a better suit could have been purchased.
Slim ties need not be the domain of hipster kids and 60s throwbacks. This Alexander Olch tie is a demonstration in proportion and control.
Boki is carrying a pair of sunglasses in his breast pocket lending personality and another element to his look, in this case a warm metallic. If you’re going to wear sunglasses, remember to take them off and avoid wearing them on your head when not in use.
Cuff length is the traditional inch, giving the whole suit a feeling of control and consideration, just the feeling you need when walking into a meeting. A double cuff isn’t always necessary and can sometimes overpower the look of an outfit. This barrel cuff shirt is the epitome of good taste and compliments the slim sleeve and more restrained feel of this suit.
By mixing the check of his suit with the check of his shirt and over size tartan tie, Boki looks like he’s having fun, but not a clown. Make sure you’re wearing your clothes and not the other way around. It’s a sea of grey boredom out there so don’t be afraid to embellish with the right touches.
The general rule for the length of one’s jacket is to let the hem sit in the softly curled palm of your hand. Here Boki subtly flaunts the rule with a shorter jacket, yet still maintains professionalism by fitting it passed his hips and not drifting into fashion territory.
A softer, slimmer line in this suit gives Boki a more youthful, approachable elegance. The proportions are more contemporary letting the cloth and choice of accessories do the talking.
By having his trousers tailored super-slim, Boki sends this suit into the realm of fashion, but by keeping a grip on the width he still looks professional and in charge. While not for everybody, it’s important to consider your trouser width for a more optimal silhouette and feel.
The soft luggage is an inspired choice by Boki, that continues where the soft canvas construction of the suit left off. A backpack is for hiking, be taken serious with grown-up choices. Consider other options for luggage than the standard rigid briefcase and avoid looking like slob with any old bag.
Just as width is important, Boki has his hem’s cut a little shorter on this suit allowing a peak at his yellow socks and fully exposing the beauty of his tri-colour Opening Ceremony Brogues from Beggar Man Thief. There are rules that apply to correct colours of shoes with suits, but this Town and Country look exemplifies the complimentary rule.
Harrolds French Suit in Grey Check
Harrolds Check Shirt in Blue
Opening Ceremony Tri-colour Leather Brogues
Barton Pierrera Tortoise shell aviator sunglasses
Alexander Olch check wool tie
Paul Smith floral print scarf
Styling and words by James Cameron. Photography by Scottie Cameron. Model Boki Milinkovic at Viviens Models.