Australian expats Ryan Lobo and Ramon Martin launched TOME in 2011 in New York with a mandate to create “infinitely wearable” garments for the “every woman”. Lobo and Martin employ a female muse in all their collections, and this time they picked 20th-century poet and writer Sylvia Plath. The collection renders her in contemporised ‘50s silhouettes, “sometimes bound at the waist, at other times set free.”

Music: The Eurythmics’ Love is a Stranger and Malcolm McLaren’s Operaa House.

Hair: Slicked back and worn straight and out, or in a low ponytail.

Beauty: Dewy natural skin with a pink or red lip.

Key looks: A flowing, bias-cut dress in royal blue, replete with billowing sleeves cut just below the elbow and a low, v-cut neckline; structured tie-at-the-back shirts with a cheeky middle-back reveal; a striking sleeveless vest-dress in large-scale black and white gingham, tied at the middle.

Overall feel: Downtown Manhattan elan meets modern-day Plath. The collection was largely devoted to refined, utilitarian daywear, with a flourish of black lace and slinky silk for the evening hours. The runway teemed with black and white and cream, with lush bursts of colour – royal blue, crimson and pastel pink – in some of the more feminine pieces. There were nods to the 1950s, with pretty pleated skirts and ribbons tied around the neck. Minimalist shapes had subtle embellishments – trademark culottes featured giant, flat, zipped pockets; lace that only just peeked out from the base or neckline of dresses, skirts and short-sleeved shirts.

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Spotted: Gemma Ward nestled between Vogue Australia’s editor-in-chief Edwina McCann and fashion director Christine Centenera. Designer Dion Lee also had a seat in the front row. Samantha Harris on the runway.

To see the rest of our coverage from MBFWA, click here.