As soon as you see the pastry cabinet, you’ll know Saga is Andy Bowdy’s place. It’s the odd mix of innovation, prettiness and reverence for old-school American comfort food the chef has become known for since leaving Hartsyard in mid-2015.

Where else would you find Paris-Brests almost overflowing with a pecan-pie filling and caramel cream; intensely boozy banana cream pies; and a pineapple and coconut tart of palm sugar-glazed pineapple, salted coconut cream and coconut praline?

Beyond the pastry cabinet, which also houses Bowdy’s signature decadent, meringue-capped cake towers (mini versions), there are surprising savoury options such as Italian deli sandwiches and a medley of corn with egg, spelt and parmesan.

The fit-out doesn’t really lend itself to pastry shop or bakery archetypes. Being so timber-heavy, clean cut and hosting just a handful of benches, it looks more like a noodle bar or a minimalist fashion shop.

If you’re lucky enough to get a seat at the small bar adjacent to the open kitchen, you’ll be able to order an Artificer coffee and watch the chefs at work.