Dulwich Hill locals might remember Fred Jaber’s original Zeit and Zaatar, a bakery that incongruously shared a lot with a car wash, a fruit shop and sometimes a fresh-Christmas-tree stall on New Canterbury Road.

Fred’s Oil and Oregano has swapped the gritty charm of that location for high tables and stools and plenty of greenery. There are large bi-fold windows that let light and cool air into a shop that’s well warmed by its hardworking oven.

Jaber’s za’atar pizza (his signature and favourite) is a simple dish; light, fluffy flatbread is topped with a mixture that Jaber makes himself from thyme, sumac (a slightly tart Middle Eastern spice), salt and sesame seeds.

The menu has safe options – cheese pizza, tomato pizza – but for the best experience, ask Jaber for a recommendation. Sojok (Turkish sausage) is served on pizza with cheese, tomato and chilli. There are also pastries such as ricotta and spinach or haloumi and spinach. The usual soft drinks are on offer, but try an ayran – a salted yogurt drink – for something authentic.