The Fold

The Fold, a Sri Lankan-inspired eatery in Sydney’s inner west, is a formidable family affair. Owner Travin De Hoedt (who’s also head pastry chef at Franca Brasserie), his partner Saaya Takahashi (pastry chef de partie at Sixpenny) and his brother Jason De Hoedt (pastry chef at Franca Brasserie) oversee the cakes and sweets, mum Dilki De Hoedt manages front of house, and dad Augi De Hoedt is the head chef.

Augi took a cautious approach when planning the opening menu, strategically placing hoppers and pan-fried milk rice alongside more familiar cafe classics such as avocado toast and bacon-and-egg rolls. The feedback was good, and the Fold has since launched a full Sri Lankan menu featuring various kinds of sambol, roti, hoppers and plenty of curries. It's also serving dinner Thursday to Saturday.

If delectable Sri Lankan food in the middle of Dulwich Hill is The Fold’s first pleasant surprise, the pastry cabinet is its second. You might find carrot cake with sultanas soaked in Sri Lankan tea from Tea Craft; cardamom, nutmeg and clove-spiced love cake; and Takahashi’s speciality: the notoriously difficult-to-bake, light-as-air cotton cheesecake.

The pared-back space is decorated with woven baskets and bucolic scenes of the Sri Lankan countryside. At the entrance, floating shelves hold a collection of house-made chutneys and pickles for sale.

The Fold's last service is on Friday, July 14.