It’s a big call to say something is a first. But we’re confident Sydney hasn’t had a venue like Ca Phe Mai. It’s fresh, energising and new – without being unrecognisable. The back-alley space in Double Bay is a mash-up of Vietnamese and Australian flavours, taking you from early-morning cafe to low-lit wine bar.

The venue brings together elements from co-owner couple Cindy Mai and Ed Loveday’s history. It’s detail-oriented and elevated, like Loveday’s now-closed ACME and The Passage. The menu is underpinned by Mai’s Vietnamese heritage, her Viet Kieu (a Vietnamese person living overseas) identity, and her and her family’s experience owning and running Vietnamese restaurants (Phuong Nam, VN City).

Most of the morning offering could be categorised as brunch classics with a Vietnamese twist. Lunch means seared-tuna rice paper rolls, classic banh mi and ultra-fresh vermicelli “canteen bowls” (perhaps topped with Hanoi-style turmeric fish cake). Then, the wine bar vibe sets in. Loveday’s drinks list sticks to the same brief – expect cocktails with Vietnamese flavours that change often.