Homemade pastas, 40 seats and a kitchen with two chefs. It’s like eating in a rural Italian family’s living room, which is not too far from the truth. The dining room at is ex-A Tavola chef Matt Pollock’s living room. Kindred is both his home and new restaurant.

As far as neighbourhood restaurants go, the food is right up there with the best. The main reason is Pollock and Neil Murphy’s (the other chef in the tiny kitchen) dedication to their craft. On the menu you’ll see a list of all the products they do in-house. It includes sourdough, ricotta, butter, yoghurt, gelato, pasta, sausages, puff pastry, mustard and vinegars.

The dishes, and much of the produce, are Italian in approach, but it’s not entirely traditional. The menu changes a lot, but during the winter it’s likely you’ll find the slippery, rich pappardelle with braised lamb and green olives; beef cheeks, pickled cabbage and Brussel sprouts on a bed of celeriac puree; and the homemade sausages (chicken thigh, pork shoulder, chicory and fennel) with onion relish, mustard and green lentils. The pair will try to always have two vegetarian mains.

Pollock makes gelato for dessert. Try the banana gelato served with a dreamy mess of meringue, caramel cream and praline. Drinks change regularly, too. The wines are mostly biodynamic. There’s also Batch Brewery on tap and a decent selection of spirits.

Completing the homey vibe is the building, a lovely, simple refurbishment of the old Mulligan's site.

Updated: December 14th, 2016

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