From Japanese standards such as yakitori to playful snacks like popcorn shrimp, the menu at Yachiyo Japanese Bistro has enough variety to please the crowds it attracts every week.

Born on Tanegashima island in southern Japan (where quality seafood is abundant), Yachiyo owner-chef Mitsuhiro Yashio’s knowledge of Australian seafood is impressive. And so too is the sushi and sashimi at his buzzy Darlinghurst restaurant. You’ll want to ring ahead to secure some toro – the prized, fatty underside of tuna – which is a specialty here.

Yashio was trained at Kyoto’s Michelin-starred Akai, and his interpretations of classic Japanese dishes – such as the Kyoto-style slow-cooked duck with chilli and ginger rice – are well regarded within Sydney’s Japanese community. Visitors from interstate and Japanese diplomats from Canberra are some of Mitsuhiro’s longstanding fans, who have made trips to Darlinghurst and Yachiyo Mosman to enjoy the chef’s food (and company) over the years.

With 66 seats and a bar stocked with sake, Yachiyo is sizable enough to host a revelling group of friends. But the set menu option is a good shout for any occasion, and features seven of Mitsuhiro’s favourite dishes.