For 21 years this Darlinghurst site was home to Onde, best known for pioneering the confit duck. It’s also one of the reasons why the owners – Jackie Park and chef Aum Touchpong Chancaw (ex- Longrain) – chose to open up their restaurant, Moon, in the same space.

Moon plates up European-Thai dishes, something the team says you don’t often see. It also pays homage to Aum’s culinary background, which marries molecular gastronomy with traditional Thai cooking.

During lunch service expect familiar Thai street-food dishes, including pad thai and pad see ew. But it’s the evening when Aum steps it up. There’s a green curry of beef cheeks, eggplant, fried anchovies and basil, which is topped with caviar balls made from egg yolks; and the 72-hour braised beef ribs with a tamarind glaze, crisp eschalot, semi-dried tomato and watercress.

To accompany the food, there’s a neat wine list, featuring mainly independent wineries that practice sustainable farming like Giant Steps in the Yarra Valley and New Zealand’s Te Mata.

The duo has also set the restaurant up as a small gallery for local artists, with its matte-white walls currently featuring commissioned work by Sydney watercolour artist Blair Zhang.