Joe Kitsana might be the hardest-working man in Sydney hospitality. He’s been on the scene for more than 25 years, notably at Martin Boetz’s Longrain and David Thompson’s Sailors Thai, in The Rocks.

In June 2016, he took over the lease of a tiny Darlinghurst cafe and eventually turned it into a Thai restaurant that he ran entirely on his own. Front of house, waiter, dishwasher, head chef: he did it all.

He’s since moved up the road to this bigger space and these days, sometimes has other people helping out (good for you, Joe). The dishes that made the original such a hit have stuck around. A starter of chunky Hanoi-style chicken spring rolls served with nuoc cham and herbs is a must, as are the dumplings swimming in a chilli, ginger and soy sauce. Larger options include crisp lemon chicken and stir-fried and slow-braised pork hock.

Then there’s the unmistakable decor – charming floral enamel plates that match the ones on the tables.

To drink, there’s a small offering of spirits and Singha beer, but Joe’s place is also BYO – he’ll keep your riesling cold in the fridge for you.