Joe Kitsana might be the hardest-working man in Sydney hospitality. He’s been on the scene for more than 20 years, notably at Martin Boetz' Longrain – where he worked from its opening in 1999 until 2006 – and later at David Thompson's Sailors Thai, in The Rocks.

In June 2016, he took over the lease of a tiny Darlinghurst cafe and eventually turned it into a Thai restaurant that he ran entirely on his own. Front of house, waiter, dishwasher, head chef: it’s all Joe. On paper it doesn’t make sense. But Kitsana pulls it off with astonishing grace.

He’s since moved up the road to a bigger space, where you’ll find all the dishes that made the original such a hit. A starter of chunky Hanoi-style crispy chicken spring rolls served with punchy nuoc cham and fresh herbs is a must, as are the dumplings swimming in a chilli, ginger and soy sauce.

Kitsana has also brought back old favourites of stir-fried and slow-braised pork hock, and a crispy lemon chicken. Then there’s the unmistakable decor – charming floral enamel plates that match the ones on the tables.

To drink, there’s a small offering of spirits and Singha beer, but Joe’s place is also BYO – he’ll keep your riesling cold in the fridge for you.