Gaku Robata Grill has built a dedicated following since it opened in 2018, thanks in large part to its ramen. But chefs and co-owners Haru Inukai (Bilson’s, Ramen Ikkyu, Blancharu) and Shimon Hanakura (Aria) are constantly reimagining their tiny neighbourhood diner, trying their hands at everything from “Australian kaiseki” to a classic a la carte offering.

The wine list features drops mainly from France, plus a few Aussie options selected by wine importer Andrew Guard and sommelier Tim Stock, who Inukai met while working at landmark Sydney fine diner Bilson’s. Inukai spent his early years in Australia working under the guidance of the late Tony Bilson, and wears his trademark bow tie in tribute to his late mentor.