For Ken Williams and Drew Huston, the decision to move their lo-fi pizzeria Dimitri’s from its original Crown Street spot to a new Oxford Street location was a simple one. The main reason for moving was the need for a larger kitchen equipped with a traditional Italian-made woodfired oven – something Williams and Huston had lusted after since they took over the business in 2011.
With the new oven came a change of dough: it’s now 100 per cent sourdough, made with a combination of Australian and Italian stone-ground flours. It’s all part of the team’s pursuit of flavour over tradition, and quality and seasonality over convention.
The Sweet Leaf pizza comes with house-stretched mozzarella, fermented lemon, herbs gathered (in part) from planters on the new store’s rooftop, and honey from Williams’s mother’s hives. The Brussel Crowe is topped with wood-roasted brussels sprouts, fermented lemon ricotta, caramelised onion and fennel, and cubes of smoked scamorza (a southern-Italian stretched curd cheese).
Along with a logo-covered window from the old location – now framed, illuminated and suspended from the ceiling – Williams and Huston have transported their selection of craft beers and (mostly Italian) natural wines. Highlights include a lush skin-contact vermentino from Ephemera in Victoria, and the Wild Australian Ale from Wildflower in Marrickville.