Avia means “grandmother” in Latin and the legacy of co-owner Stefano Marano’s Nonna Pina can be felt throughout the space and dishes, too. House-baked focaccia with sugo is a nod to mornings he spent waking up in his grandmother’s house and dipping bread into a sauce simmering on her stove.

Run by Marano and co-owner Jack Reid, who met while working at The Apollo, the Italian diner has a strong focus on heritage.

Grab a seat at the curved bar or at the window looking out towards Taylor Square and order baby escarole pie topped with aged cheddar; or zingy house-made spaghettoni with lemon, provolone and mouth-numbing native pepper. The cripsy dry-aged snapper is a signature, served with roast tomato picante and fresh grapefruit.