Four days a week, people are sitting on stools crowded around bright-red milk crate-style tables. King-sized slices of pizza – each sauced up with a secret-recipe passata of local and Sardinian tomatoes – sit on white paper plates, covering every table. Often, those pies are all selling out hours before closing time.

Of course, fanfare is expected when AP Bakery does something – and it’s only helped here with De Caro’s pizza expertise (he’s also behind Cicerone and Tonino’s International) and the location: the buzzy, yellow-washed Sydney corner that was most recently the ever-adored Cafe Freda’s.

The 22-inch rounds are only available by the slice. There are red and green AP sauces, a ranch first seen at Ester and a ’nduja, honey and tomato mix from Poly.