It feels like AP is everywhere in the inner city. But one of the many things we love about the bakery is that each location has a unique selling point.

This one especially so – in a first for the brand, it does dinner. In an 80-seat sandstone cottage with heritage features, no less. There’s a sun-baked front courtyard, a grown-up dining room (with fireplaces and open shelving housing bottles of wine), double-height ceilings and a jacaranda tree in the back garden.

In the morning, there’s a sweet brioche knot, whisky canelés, a frilly carrot cake and old faves like buttermilk croissants and Aleppo scrolls. All-day breakfast includes a saucy chicken, egg and cheese muffin that’s “kind of a Japanese rissole meets a McDonald’s muffin”; a whopping oat pancake topped with whipped honey butter; and more. At lunch there are interesting sangas and a big salad and daily pasta that change regularly.

Dinner is snacky and wine-oriented, with the on-site pasta extruder, ice-cream machine and the team’s pastry expertise playing key roles. Expect creative pastas and desserts, plus savoury dishes like vol-au-vents and pate en croute. From midday, you can also score drinks including pre-batched freezer cocktails, Italian and Japanese digestives, and non-alcoholic shrubs and a dozen wines by the glass.