This Cronulla venue is the brainchild of from former Rambutan owners Joe Natale and Oriana De Luca, along with chef Ruben Martinez (formerly of La Scala). Based on an Italian restaurant’s style of serving a restricted menu, Giro Osteria limits itself to six or seven seasonal items that change frequently. While Martinez is Ecuadorian, his meals are uncompromisingly Italian.

Dishes could include whole snapper cooked in filtered seawater served with cherry tomatoes and lemon leaves; beef carpaccio prepared using the 1950s recipe from Harry’s Bar; and slices of imported and house-made salumi.

The wine list, designed by De Luca, concentrates on Italian wines and a few Australian varietals, and are mostly biodynamic. Equally important to the food and booze is Giro Osteria’s exceptional view out over North Cronulla Beach (or Northies, if you’re a local), which on a summer’s evening would be among the best spots anywhere in the city.