This is what a neighbourhood restaurant looks like these days. There are no chequered tables, family portraits or mains under $20. Instead there’s an acclaimed chef, a wood-fired oven and an expensive fit-out.

Like many Feros Group venues, the inspiration for this particular neighbourhood game-changer is the casual dining scene in the US, specifically Gjelina, a trendy Italian-influenced restaurant in LA.

Like there, there’s a lot going on here. Half of the venue features a takeaway section with salads; sandwiches; roast meats and locally roasted coffee.

The other has tables overlooking a bar and the wood-fired oven. Out of that comes homemade flat breads; whole chickens with chimichurri and pickled peppers; and lamb-shoulders soft enough to eat with a spoon. Otherwise, executive chef Simon Sandall (ex-Solotel) focuses on refined versions of what you’d expect at an old-school neighbourhood joint – cheeseburgers; fish and chips; pasta; and steak.

A few of those dishes may even look out of place because the fit-out here, from Humphrey and Edwards (which also did Chiswick), is as light, airy and prim as they come in this area.

Drinks straddle both identities – cheaper commercial beers are next to Aus crafts, fruity cocktails and Australian wines, some of which are on tap.

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Updated: December 6th, 2016

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