In the front window of Yia Sou is a triple-layer charcoal rotisserie: thick pieces of glistening lamb, herb-encrusted chicken wings and juicy pork nuggets.

Inside it’s not flashy or on trend; it looks like a milk bar, but instead of beetroot and egg burgers with potato scallops, it serves food from the streets of Greece. There are two kinds of souvlaki: John and Johnny. The big kid is John and the little one Johnny.

Owner Chris Papadopolous’ recipes are all riffs off his mum’s cooking. The souvla is prepared with a spice mix of olive oil, salt and oregano. It comes off the grill juicy, salt-encrusted and steaming with the smell of a dry Greek summer. The Concord locals get their’s wound with chips and tzatziki inside a grilled disc of pita bread. If you’re going to go down that road, add a slab of haloumi to your wrap.

The moussaka is chunky with lumps of potato and slightly sweet from being stewed with a drizzle of sticky dessert wine. The spanakopita and tiropita (a cheese triangle) is handmade by Papadopolous’ father-in-law. The galaktoboureko is a semolina-based custard cake encased in filo pastry.