Red wine, movies and soup – the ideal accoutrements to Sydney’s winter. And the city has plenty of places to partake – especially, say, if ramen is your thing.
Of the flurry of newbies, we’re digging Neutral Bay’s Ichibandori, a tiny late-night Japanese joint serving a more refined chicken- and pork-broth ramen than Sydney’s most abundant style, the porky tonkotsu. There’s also Chatswood’s Ramen Zundo, which serves Sapporo-style ramen, a much paler version than the almost gravy-thick tonkotsu. It’s made with a combination of pork, chicken and vegetable-based stock.
And there’s Gogyo, in Surry Hills. It’s not new but the kogashi miso (meaning “charred” in Japanese) is unlike any other ramen in town. It’s made by over-heating lard and then adding miso paste to produce a dark-coloured, super-unctuous soup. It might sound a little intense but trust me, it’s magical.
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For an exciting and interesting glass of vino served in a cosy, winter-friendly location, 10 William St is hard to beat. Saturday arvo is my fave time to visit this Paddington institution, especially in drizzly weather. The venue’s new head chef, Trisha Greentree, previously cooked and worked the garden at acclaimed Victorian restaurant Brae (among others), and this remarkable Italian wine bar continues to hum under her direction.
Dear Sainte Eloise is equally delightful for a drink and noteworthy meal. Here you’ll find one of the city’s most interesting wine lists, best explored by letting the sommeliers take you on an adventure.
Sydney Film Festival is the ultimate cold-weather event and this year celebrates 66 impressive years. It opens on June 5 with a flick called Palm Beach, which is set in the beautiful northern beaches. The fest has the usual eclectic programming but my money’s on All Night Cine-Love In (Dendy Newtown June 8 & 9), an overnight screening of four films head of programs Jenny Neighbour says changed her cinematic worldview. Settle in from 10pm to 7.30am for Eraserhead, In the Realm of the Senses, O Lucky Man! and Female Trouble.
Carriageworks brings an innovative line-up of food events and conversations in the cooler months. Rodney Dunn of Tasmania’s very excellent Agrarian Kitchen cooking school and restaurant will chat winter veggies on June 22, and then on July 19 the next instalment of the Winter Night Market extravaganza takes place. James Viles, of Bowral’s Biota, is curating this one, and the theme is “wild”. It’s a very busy, very fun evening with stacks of the city’s best chefs and wine producers serving one-off snacks and drinks.
This story originally appeared in print issue 18.