The name might be semi-inspired by Island Radio in neighbouring Redfern, but Radio Taco’s menu is straight outta Jalisco – the western Mexican state that’s the birthplace of birria.

Although the spiced stew was traditionally made with goat, this dish has been remixed endlessly for the social-media age, evolving into a spiced broth for cheese-crusted taco-dipping. Radio Taco flexes this further, serving birria as mushroom-loaded fries, meaty ramen and more.

Grabbing a seat inside this corner-store taqueria is tough: the 12-seater is a collaboration between mates who’ve worked at The International, Ola Lola and Carbon, and the birria-boosting signal they’ve transmitted across Sydney has been heard loudly and clearly.