Lino Sauro wants you to feel like you’re in his home city of Sicily. Sitting on the Olio rooftop, an olive tree behind you, a plate of caponata in front of you and a crimson aperitif sweating under the sun in hand – you realise he’s done a good job.

Sauro’s cuisine is more Sicilian in concept than in literal interpretation. Take the octopus and bone marrow risone. It’s inspired by a simple chicken-stock risone Sauro’s mum made when he was a child. King prawn ravioli (like an Italian wonton) is inspired by both his time in Singapore running Gattopardo and, with fresh truffles and burrata, by classic Italian produce. Caponata and grilled calamari are closer to what you’d find in Sauro’s hometown.

The restaurant’s design and bar bring in Australian trends. The wine list mixes organic Italians with leading local producers. The interiors reflect both Kensington Street’s heritage and modern design fads; the walls are untreated and the original windows are intact but the bar and furnishings are all light timbers and dark metals.