In February 2020 LP's Quality Meats pulled down its roller door, after five years of dishing up shared plates of blood sausages, slabs of perfectly smoked short ribs and trays of charcuterie, made in-house and slice to order. The goal was to focus on LP's expanding wholesale business, but one pandemic later, owner Luke Powell (the restaurant's namesake "LP") decided to reopen for dine-in.

The dining room is smaller, and the hours of service more limited. But Powell says this has ushered in an unprecedented age of creativity in the kitchen. The dine-in menu changes regularly depending on the whims of the kitchen (and the availability of produce).

You might have the option of pasta with sausage, braised artichoke with aioli, or butterflied sardines on crisp toast. There’s also boudin noir and a salsa-verde-spiked slab of ox tongue that’s quickly becoming a signature of the “new” LP’s.

Then there’s newer additions, such as whole fish baked in the kitchen's charcoal oven. Takeaway options at breakfast time include a killer bacon, sausage and egg roll. There's also a deli counter, for takeaway charcuterie, pickled mussels and other treats.