Pig Mary

Ester is one of Sydney’s most influential restaurants –  chef Mat Lindsay’s neighbourhood place using local and sustainable ingredients, serving organic and biodynamic wine, all of it ever-changing, all of it centred around a woodfired oven. After nearly 13 years on the Chippendale block, Lindsay opened Pig Mary, a 12-seat bar just 20 metres from Ester.

During any given service, you’ll see venue manager Kendyl Parr flitting inside and out, delivering icy Martinis to people sitting in the window and bowls of crunchy “pork scratchings” to bar seats overlooking the kitchen. Head chef Pete Campbell (ex-Poly) is firing in the little kitchen – sending out tidy orders from a concise, snacky menu. It’s on the meaty side, but veggies hold their own. The scene is as you’d expect of a follow-up to Ester: a big vibe.

The centrepiece is an exceptionally saucy bifana. The Portuguese sandwich is a staple in its homeland – served alongside beers in bars across the country. At Pig Mary, the bifana arrives pooled in a smoky gravy. You’re wise to start with an icy house Martini, gin or vodka, or opt for a beer, served with a small glass and the option to spike it with Picon. But you can also order a bottle off Ester’s list if you’d like.