Tontaro Ramen Honten is Jun Toyoda’s fourth ramen store.

The big difference between the tonkotsu there and at Tontaro Ramen Honten is the bones he uses. At O-san it’s fatty pig backbones and trotters. They give the ramen viscosity and a deep richness, but not the depth you get from using bones with high marrow content.

The tonkotsu at Tontaro is made with marrow-laden pork shin bones. Tonkotsu refers to both the ingredient (the bones) and the style of broth, and the soup here is as heart-arrestingly rich as the O-san bowl, but more nuanced, and more common in Japan.

Also try the lighter chicken-based soy ramen at Tontaro Ramen Honten, and the mixed chicken and pork Hokkaido-style spicy ramen made with house-blended miso. There’s also the mazesoba, a soupless ramen with chunks of fatty pork, egg, mayo, bamboo shoots, pickled ginger and shallots.

Bowls here start at $15. The canteen-style fit-out features plenty of light-coloured timber and the sculptural ceiling – it has a non-traditional look and feel.

Updated: November 5th, 2020

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