Restaurant Leo has some good qualifications. It's by Lumi chef-owner Federico Zanellato and Karl Firla of now closed Newtown fine diner Oscillate Wildly. It's hard to think that Zanellato (who previously worked at Copenhagen's Noma, Melbourne's Attica and Sydney's Ormeggio at the Spit) and Firla (ex- Est and Marque) could mess it up.

Both chefs are zealous supporters of seasonal cooking and Australian produce, so the menu changes often. When we visited, we tried lobster with maccheroncini (mini macheronni); a simple but non-traditional veal saltimbocca; King George whiting with salsa verde; a cuttlefish risotto; and of course, tiramisu.

It's all complemented by slick service courtesy of restaurant manager Alex Grenouiller (Oscillate Wildly); and a wine menu created by Fabio Sercecchi (Balla) that mixes boutique drops with big names.