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When Swillhouse Group (Le Foote, Alberto's Lounge, Shady Pines Saloon) decided to add a French restaurant to their growing hospitality stable in 2016, they didn't pull a single punch.

Hubert’s grand wooden front door and cavernous interiors give the impression you’ve stepped into a bygone era. But this place is so much more than a hidden underground parlour. Seven rooms include two bars, dining rooms and a somewhat unexpected old-school theatre, used for "magnums and movies" nights and private functions. All spaces reflect postwar France, with low ceilings, dim lighting and dark timber furniture.

As for the menu, expect updated French classics such as roasted snails in XO sauce, Wagyu tartare with classic condiments, and Wollemi Duck a l’Orange. There’s also a grill section involving steaks from formidable names in beef, plus a selection of raw seafood and French charcuterie. Desserts range from crème caramel to soufflé.

Live jazz in the main dining room is a permanent fixture. As you sip on Martinis to the sounds of Frank Sinatra and the Rat Pack, sooner or later you’ll forget it’s the 21st century.