The Gidley is one of three top CBD steakhouses by Liquid and Larder, who’s stable also includes Bistecca and Alfie’s nearby. The team wanted this opulent venue to feel like a rabbit warren, and that it does. From the moment you descend the stairs into the dimly lit lounge, the service is warm, the whisky is flowing and the vibe is relaxed.

As at Bistecca and Alfie’s, the star of the concise menu is Riverine Black Angus beef. But while Bistecca heroes its namesake and Alfie’s the sirloin, The Gidley is all about the ribeye. Have it on the bone (cooked over ironbark and charcoal), as a standing roast, a boneless chop in two sizes, or as a 220-gram portion of spinalis, the most premium of the cuts.

Accompaniments are crucial at any steakhouse, and options here might include cheesy mac, brussels sprouts and thick-cut maple bacon. Instead of fries, go for the hash browns that arrive under a weight of smoked garlic cream and a tangy pop of bottarga.

Other highlights include a brick chicken – that’s a whole bird deboned, butterflied and flattened under a brick – and a whole butterflied rainbow trout served with peas and vermouth sauce. A prawn cocktail, duck terrine or a bump of Oscietra caviar will get you started in style.

The jazzy atmosphere and velvet banquettes demands a Martini, and here they come deconstructed – your silver tray includes three ramekins filled with garnishes so you can make it how you like it: lemon rind for a twist, pickled onions for a Gibson, or green olives.