If you haven’t been to Sydney you might imagine the famous harbour in one image, a shimmering blue expanse that always includes the Harbour Bridge and Opera House. If you’re a local, you’ll know there are pockets that are less grandiose but no less enjoyable.

If you can, always opt for a table by the water at The Gantry, the restaurant in Pier One Hotel – although an inside seat is far from disappointing. The dark timber, misshapen wooden light fittings, extensive wine displays and aqua finishes in the cushions and crockery give you enough to look at.

With each artfully plated dish, head chef Rhys Connell (formerly of Sydney’s now-closed Sepia and Melbourne’s Society in Melbourne) speaks to Sydney’s coastal location.

There are multiple menus to choose from – whether you need to fit in an elegant bite before a show or are there to settle in for the long haul (the chefs selection has long been one of Sydney’s best).

Seafood features heavily, whether it be Yellowfin Tuna served with lightly dried ox heart tomato, burrata and basil “air”; or Tasmanian Southern rock lobster grilled simply over coal. Everything is designed for long lunches or idyllic diners shared by the harbour.

Cocktails make good use of seasonal fruits and native herbs. The wine list is well priced and ripe for exploration.