Bacco Osteria and Espresso, from veteran chef and restaurateur Andrew Cibej, serves pizza by the slice, paninis, pastries and coffee (from Little Marionette). Come in the morning for a cappuccino and pastry, and then later for either a panini and an espresso or a plate of pasta and a wine.

The menu (which changes regularly) is simple, short and reflective of Italy’s many regional cuisines and styles. The most traditional dish is the handmade pistachio and pecorino gnocchi. There has also been a lamb tartare topped with ancient-Roman-style anchovy paste, and a simple lentil salad with house-made pork sausage.

Also homemade are the pastas, like the strozzapretti with goat and guanciale ragu. And spaghetti with native succulents and hand-caught sea urchin.

The wine list is 70-strong. Most are Italian and a good portion are natural. The cocktails present a seasonal twist on common Italian drinks alongside a trio of G&Ts, each made with a different local gin. A small selection of alcoholic beverages are available in the cafe section (five or so options scrawled in chalk on a wall) as is the restaurant’s baked ricotta cheesecake.