Derrel’s tagline – “Nana never cooked” – is a nod to chef Brendan King’s childhood, when his grandpa Derrel was lauded for an outstanding pork vindaloo. Happily, King's take on the vindaloo is always on offer at this late-night Indian joint, which shares a kitchen with neighbouring pub, The Lady Hampshire, where King is also head chef.

Part takeaway shop, part casual eatery, Derrel’s modern interpretations of classic Indian dishes includes a fleet of curries served from bain-maries. Other menu highlights include blackened tandoori wings (another of King’s childhood faves) and a butter chicken; the latter's tangy-sweet gravy appearing as a dipper on the tandoori half-chicken plate, and as a sauce on the hot chip butty.

Like the food, the space itself is rich with detail: marigold garlands hang over the kitchen pass, wood panelling and tiles decorate the walls, menus are printed on vintage Women’s Weekly magazines and food is served on pink plastic divided plates.