There are many ways to judge the quality of a cafe (coffee comes to mind). Urban Artisans measures itself by its avocado smash.

Served on soy and linseed bread, and topped with Persian feta, the secret to the “smAshfield” is the house-made dukkah, a roasted spice and nut blend. For a dish not found on every cafe menu in Sydney, try the greens and grains: toast with poached eggs, pea puree, broccolini and wild rice.

The cafe is licensed, and there’s a succinct cocktail and wine list to go with lunch dishes such as a rich fettuccine boscaiola with bacon three types of mushrooms or the king prawn spaghettini.

The atrium-like space is bright, with big louvered windows that open to the street. The vaulted glass ceiling is framed by the giant leaves of monstera plants creeping out of pots hung close to the ceiling. For a quick lunch, head to Urban Artisans’ juice bar next door, where you can get a gingery detox green drink with a bacon and egg roll.