Nowra isn’t exactly known for its coffee. Once, the best you could do was swing past the Gloria Jeans on the way through to Woolies. Pip de Pulford changed that when he opened Hyper Hyper, a truly unique cafe and roaster.
Unlike many modern roasters, Pulford has not so much broken with tradition as embraced it. He eschews third-wave, lightly roasted coffees for a dark, oily, pungent bean that speaks more to 1950s Florence than 21st-century Norway (the spiritual home of lighter coffees. Roasted in a genuine 1959 Probat UG22 with a cast iron and German-iron drum, and poured from vintage Italian hand-pulled espresso machines, Pulford’s coffee is rich, interesting and extremely idiosyncratic.
There’s not a hint of coffee snobbery in sight. Locals park their bums and prams under umbrellas with the Toby’s Estate logo cheekily crossed out; Talking Heads and Dave Brubeck rotate on the turntable; and baristas chat amiably across the machines.
For the coffee aficionado, Hyper Hyper is worth a pilgrimage from the city in and of itself. For the rest of us, it’s well worth the detour.