A destination for the epicurious is unfolding in a heritage-listed building in Rosebery. Formerly a poker-machine factory, the 7000-square-metre site will become home to artisan bakers, florists, a cooking school, distillery, yum cha, deli and cafes.

5th Earl Rosebery, which opened in late November, is one of the first cafes operating from the site. The casual eatery is run by the Panousos and Kay families, relatives that have been in the hospitality business together for more than three decades.

Part-owner Klea Panousos came across the vacant Rosebery factory by chance when passing through the area and immediately saw its potential.

“We love the fact it's heritage-listed and that we had to work with the beautiful walls, windows and ceilings. It gives the cafe a real point of difference,” she says.

The end result makes the most of theses with added touches of elegant French provincial décor.

“We didn't want to go too industrial, and we've designed the outdoor setting like a Parisian cafe.”

Head chef John Kozma's Greek and Lebanese heritage can be spotted throughout the menu, especially when it comes to the labneh and falafel, which his mum makes fresh at home each morning. The homemade cheese adds creaminess to lunch items such as the black-rice salad.

For breakfast try the Grumpy Baker Sourdough with spreads, the granola super bowl or more substantial dishes such as Mediterranean baked eggs with slow-roast lamb and mushroom ragout.

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Updated: March 13th, 2018

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