“Classically inspired with a modern approach” is the brief at Botany’s Beer Fontaine. For the drinker, that might mean sessionable lagers and bitter ales. But it could also mean wild-fermented saisons and barrel-aged imperial stouts. In other words, beers that speak to tradition – but aren't strictly bound by it.

Co-owner and head brewer Marshall Harrington loves the way Belgium does things: aging beers in barrels and seeing what happens in a year’s time. At Fontaine, he’s using ex-whisky barrels sourced from Archie Rose, Starward and Lark Distilleries. We’re here to say it: the results are better than good.

Fontaine’s handsome taproom is the old warehouse for Harrington’s other business, a lighting company for TV and film. It’s where you’ll find 15 taps including an old-school handpump for Fontaine’s British Bitter. The range is both thrilling and constantly evolving, but the EZPZ lager is a favourite and a staple.

Like Wildflower in Marrickville, many of Fontaine’s brews flaunt wine-like qualities and are made with food in mind. To that end, expect deli plates at a minimum and, on weekends, pop-up kitchens such as Agape Organic, Indian-inspired eats by Pocket Rocketz, woodfired pizza by Happy as Larry and more.