Sean’s is one of the most quintessentially Sydney dining experiences there is. The menu’s properly local and seasonal, the room is bathed in sunlight and Bondi’s crashing waves are audible from within. Yet, it’s blessedly free from Sydney’s frequent glitz and gimmick. Almost every food-loving Sydneysider has a wistful story to tell about a perfect meal they once ate at Sean’s.

Award-winning chef Sean Moran’s love of fresh produce is evident in his ever-changing menu, much of it sourced from his Blue Mountains farm. Yabby tails, pippies, roast chook, chestnut gnocchi, kingfish carpaccio or linguine with rocket and chilli oil may appear on the blackboard menu, accompanied by an exclusively Australian wine list (Champagne the exception). If you’re happy to leave it to Moran, order the Chef’s Choice of five courses with matched wines. Desserts at Sean’s are renowned, so try whatever’s on offer.

The higher prices reflect the quality of produce and its careful execution. Diners expecting culinary acrobatics, white linen, space and silence will be disappointed. The restaurant has a fresh and cheerful, kitchen-table quality that belies its professionalism and culinary prowess. Paintings, roses from the farm and wood panelled walls add to the charm. The famous lettered signage above the restaurant (established in 1993) says it all: rickety-chic, but above all, memorable.