The colour scheme at Pacific Club Bondi Beach is lush and blush; there are muted pinks, cream-coloured booths and gleaming brass fixtures. And an impressive floating fireplace at the entrance.

It’s on the ground floor of the schmick Pacific Building, a mixed-use development on Campbell Parade that also houses Bondi Beach Public Bar, Panama House, QT Hotel and Side Room.

The Pacific Club has strong upmarket-bistro vibes, on a street where wetsuit-clad surfers duck into poke-bowl bars. It’s a notably more refined player in Bondi’s dining scene.

A pan-Asian influence informs the menu, with starters that might include wood-fired king prawns served with garlic-miso butter and a toasted sesame crumb; and yellowfin tuna tartare with avocado, tobiko (fish roe) and seaweed crackers.

For mains, it might be char-grilled octopus with cucumber, green shallots, chilli, tamarind, mint and toasted rice; or a soy-and-black-pepper-glazed eye fillet plated with picked shimeji mushrooms and Paris mash potato. There’s a tight list of desserts and cheese to finish.

The wine list involves Australian whites and reds and drops from New Zealand, Italy and France.