Rocker is by Darren Robertson (Three Blue Ducks) and Cameron Northway’s (Sweet & Chilli) North Bondi.

The idea here is to be the place to go for locals at any time of the day, for any occasion. In the morning that means coffee (from Single Origin), pastries (some done in-house, others from Brasserie and Messy Spoon) and a short breakfast menu that includes fried eggs on toast with apple, pickles, watercress and LP’s Quality Meats blood sausage. And a sandwich stuffed with maple-and-espresso-soaked bacon and house-made HP sauce.

At night try Negronis on tap, house-made pastas and Chris Morrison’s (ex- Guillaume sommelier) rotating, Australian-focused wine list.

Every day there’s a vegetarian special, a whole fish and oysters. There’s also a rotating quartet of pastas, a steak, charcuterie, a few appetisers and a separate menu of bar snacks. Think dishes such as beef ragu (using oxtail, tongue, ox cheek, bone marrow and jellied tendon); an orecchiette with clams, urchin and sea lettuce; and from Toon and Robertson’s English heritage, a salted rye and treacle tart.

The style has an industrial edge softened with greenery, timber and leather. The space is divided into two parts, a light-timber dining room with sea-blue table tops and curtains at night, and a cafe/bar space with a long table in the centre, bar seating on one side and a series of small wall-mounted stone tables on the other.