Trying to be everything to everyone can be fraught. But the refurbished Bondi Pavilion pulls it off with aplomb. This 300-seat venue from House Made Hospitality (Hinchcliff House) covers refined dining, casual outdoor eating and takeaway snacking via a casual beachside kiosk. The three spaces serve separate menus, and each reflect Bondi’s food culture in different ways.

The in-house restaurant Etheus serves up flame-grilled Greek fare. Mediterranean dishes pair well with the ocean views and plates range from snacky to significant.

Steps from the sand, the Beach Bar is a casual first-come-first-served outdoor space shaded with sculptural umbrellas. Out here, you’re in for flatbreads topped with harissa, goat’s curd and green sauce; or macadamia, saltbush and burrata. A slow-cooked lamb shoulder with salsa verde is the only departure from the seafood focus of the larger share plates.

The drinks list is well-balanced across refreshing alcoholic and non-alcoholic cocktails, plus predominantly Australian wines.

Moving through the dining room onto the verandah to the sand is almost seamless. The natural shades of the fit-out echo the beach. On the verandah, umbrellas trimmed in rich red beautifully frame views of the aqua and white surf.