Entering Forsyth Street from Glebe Point Road reveals views of the Harbour and Anzac bridges, and the twinkling lights of the cityscape. Taking in the Sydney skyline is a great start to the night if you’re headed to Timbah, the small bar attached to long-running bottle shop, Glebe Liquor.

Timbah represents a change for the residential end of Glebe, which has mostly resisted venues of this ilk. But this is a wine bar that won’t put off even the most conservative local.

It nails the difficult balance between relaxed and refined. Owners Tim and Louise Smith are locals and provide a space where you can get a reliably good wine and, most of all, feel at home.

The “democracy in a bottle” concept is somewhat unique to Timbah. The first customers choose which four reds and four whites are opened for the evening. This encourages customers to try something new on every visit. This is important, considering how frequently less-common varietals such as sancerre, vouvray and montepulciano find their way onto the list alongside more common ones.

The menu also aims for difference by incorporating native Australian bush-food into much-loved dishes, such as using bush seasoning for the fried chicken, and pepperberry in the aioli dip that comes with crispy squid.