It takes a little while to find the door to Ramblin’ Rascal Tavern near the corner of Park and Elizabeth Streets, marked only by a black sign with three skulls.

Housed in the old Laugh Garage, the venture is by Charlie Lehmann, Sebastian “Cosmo” Soto and Dardan Shervashidze, who are all ex-Swillhouse crew.

The choice of liquors is displayed against the back bar, with the balance weighing slightly in favour of whisky and cognac – the hope being to expand Sydney’s appreciation of cognac, the Ramblin’ Rascal drink of choice.

Cocktails range from approachable to heavy. The Twelve Gauge Grog, for example, includes “A couple of drabs of over-proofed stuff”, Havana 7, bitters, orange and lemon juice and a splash of grapefruit slush.

As for wine and beer, the lists are short and unpretentious. The most important thing for the Rascals is keeping it local. Beers are of the craft variety but if you’re down on your luck, you can grab a so-called "shit tinnie" for a measly $6.