Low and Lofty’s serves a big plate of ribs. Whatever they’re ordered with – brisket, burgers, chips or slaw – everything looks tiny in comparison. They’re soft as mango cheek from nine hours of smoking. Don’t try and stay clean eating them –that inch-think layer of barbeque sauce is for your hands and face.

Smoking is just one of the things Low and Lofty’s does. It’s a mix of Texan slow-cooked meats and Caribbean food and culture.

The upstairs bar has tropical-palm wallpaper, there’s an arcade section with two pinball machines with impossibly high scores, and the bar is dotted with colourful cocktails.

The Texan-Caribbean menu by chef Doug Opai has borrowed from places all over the world. There are smoked-goat kebabs; a bucket of karage-like fried chicken; and sing joy pow, a Caribbean-inspired san choy bau with spiced quinoa and either pulled pork, jerk chicken or a slab of haloumi.

The drinks match the venue – fruity, bright and tropical.

In the mornings while the bar’s closed there’s a coffee cart offering Will and Co. and serving bagels such as the breakfast bagel with jack cheese, rib sauce, egg and bacon.