Set below Italian diner Palazzo Salato is Letra House, Love Tilly Group’s first capital-B bar and the spiritual successor to La Salut in Redfern. Enter via a cobblestoned Kent Street laneway, into a space inspired by some of the team’s favourite boltholes from around Europe.

Although it’s designed by Studio Vista’s Sarah Watt (who also handled Palazzo Salato), this is no appendix to the main event. Letra House is distinct, with all the polish and ambiance you’d expect from the group – plus its own clandestine frisson that’ll make you feel like deleting a bottle of wine in no time.

Unlike other wine bars that prioritise list length above all, the goal with Letra House was to keep it to a tight 50 or so bottles that rotate often. All are available by the glass.

Fans of the group’s now-closed La Salut will be chuffed to hear that executive chef Scott McComas-Williams is serving a fun tapas menu that might include duck leg croquettes, and doughnuts filled with manchego custard and Cantabrian anchovy.

After the chefs go home, a late-night menu with a few surprises – tinned foie gras, for starters – kicks into gear. It’s all excellent, but it won’t leave you confused about the task at hand: drinking good wine.