The Cumberland

Sydney has bars behind a butcher’s shopfronts, and several that require climbing multiple flights of stairs to reach. But there’s only one behind an antique 1920s fridge inside a deli.

The deli in question is Cove Deli in Manly – open the fridge door to reveal a spiral sandstone staircase that leads down to The Cumberland, the Northern Beaches’ very own speakeasy-inspired bar. Every detail has been considered, down to the aged brass and faux stains on the render.

Behind the bar there’s a whopping 300 whiskies, including varieties from Scotland, Japan, Australia, America and India. Also, an impressive wine cellar (which you can see through peepholes in the stairway) and three distinct cocktail lists.

On the Foraged and Found menu, which is inspired by native ingredients found around Manly, find drops such as the Dandelion Espresso Martini, which uses both the flower and its root. The 19th Century County Tipples menu honours the exports the area was once known for: gold, hops, tea, wool, wood and dairy. There’s a cocktail relating to each, made with ingredients including sheep-whey vodka, corn-cereal milk and olive oil. The third list reflects the pre-temperance movement, with six classics that have been around for 150 years.

By day, the deli upstairs sells cheese and cured Spanish meats. At night it services the bar, transporting charcuterie and cheese boards downstairs via a custom-made dumbwaiter. A small kitchen in the bar pumps out tapas including pork and fennel meatballs, gooey raclette plates and Sydney rock oysters.