In the site that once housed kitchen supplier Chef’s Warehouse, the owners of Surry Hills’ hugely popular Bar Copains – Sal Sasi, husband Nathan Sasi and Morgan McGlone – created Bessie’s and Alma’s. The first is a share-style Mediterranean restaurant; the latter is a cocktail bar – both cosy in the same space.

Alma’s serves old party-ready classics. Harvey Wallbangers and Pimms Cups, maybe? Or a Miami Vice, where a big, obnoxious glass delivers a Pina-Colada-strawberry-Daquiri mix. Here it’s easy to make a meal out of the restaurant’s snack menu, too. You might go for a grilled Wagyu skewer served with mustard and pickles, or a garlicky flatbread showered in chopped herbs with a whiff of dippable cod’s roe.

After, a chilled after-dinner mint arrives with your bill, and you can retrieve your phones from the hidden drawers built into the tables.