The jazz kissaten, or listening bar, is a concept that emerged in Japan after the Second World War as a place to drink whisky, smoke and, most of all, listen to records. Replacing fine diner Bea on level one of Barangaroo House, this bar and diner by Matt Moran and Solotel takes inspiration from Japan’s kissaten, and combines the concept with playful, Japanese-inspired dishes.

You might order okonomi-temaki – a DIY hand roll with tuna belly, avocado and roe, and a kingfish nori tartlet with non-traditional jalapeno and fermented rice for funk. But the show stopper is the snapper karaage: the whole fish is fried and served with sweet and sour sauce, bean sprouts, pickled ginger and seaweed. You can also choose to “leave it to the chef” with two omakase options of dishes chosen by chefs on the day, or come after 10pm for Rekodo’s late-night snack menu.

Sake takes centre stage behind the long bar. There are more than 20 different types on offer tableside or in cocktail form. The bar also houses a library of more than 50 whiskies.

The vast room resembles a modernist temple dressed in traditional Japanese curtains and natural linens. In the centre is an altar-like DJ stage flanked by top-of-the-range Klipsch La Scala speakers. Their crisp, clear sound has attracted DJs from around Australia across a variety of genres to play sets, including Meg Mac, synth-pop artist Donny Benét and dance-pop duo Lazywax.

Rekodo also hosts a bottomless brunch every weekend where guests can curate their own soundtrack from the restaurant’s superior vinyl collection.