When Evan Stroeve and Cynthia Litster, the business partners behind Darlinghurst bar and diner The Waratah, visited Japan, they were seduced by the country’s hospitality culture. They knew the follow-up to The Waratah had to be Japanese. And they knew it had to be an izakaya. 

As with any good izakaya, the food is perfect for drinking to. One highlight is the Wagyu sando, which joins all the usual suspects, like chicken karaage, katsu prawns and gyoza. 

In addition to an ample range of whiskies – around 40 Japanese bottles, with the requisite Scottish and Irish delegates – there’s a tidy line-up of sakés and liqueurs, including umeshu. If you enjoy a Minus 196 or two, you’ll be pleased to find four takes on the Lemon Sour, plus highballs aplenty. 

Classic cocktails come with seasonal twists governed by small-batch Japanese producers – like an Amaretto Fizz with mango mochi cream. Signatures take that a step further, focusing on rare Japanese spirits and esoteric, hard-to-source ingredients. 

It’s all set within a space that demands repeat exploration. You’ll need a few visits to figure out whether you prefer the booth section, the low-to-the-ground bar seating or the main space, where live music plays regularly. And you’ll need more than a few visits to find your favourite details – from the tiny laptop drawers under the booths to the vintage artwork, knick-knacks and boro-style patchwork textiles lining the walls.