A dining hall packed with pho pilgrims and locals slurping rice noodles happily from steaming bowls. Verdant bouquets of basil, lemon and bean sprouts bound for every table. And the gamy funk of beef bones and spices boiling around the clock, nearly every day since 1987.

This is An Restaurant, one of Sydney’s original Vietnamese institutions in a suburb full of them. Merivale’s Dan Hong is an acolyte, as is anyone who’s been comforted by its noodle soups on a rainy day, or even a perfectly sunny one. Consistency is key to the renown, and the recipes haven’t changed since the Phan family opened this Saigon-style eatery more than 35 years ago.

Most diners order some variation of pho bo (beef brisket, flank, tripe, tendon), but the chicken pho ga is equally worth the trip to Greenfield Parade. Peruse the tables and you’ll also see plates of vinegared onion slices; beef balls floating in aromatic tea; and frosty parfait glasses of chè ba màu, Vietnam’s tri-coloured bean dessert.

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Updated: April 9th, 2024

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