Andly Private Kitchen
The first rule of Andly Private Kitchen, it would seem, is you don’t talk about Andly Private Kitchen, lest you jeopardise your chances of scoring a booking at this cosy yet graceful Chinese restaurant hiding in plain sight in West Leederville.
Andly Private Kitchen opened in mid-2015. If Google and the restaurant’s Facebook page are anything to go by, the restaurant has its admirers, but not as many as one might expect of a restaurant that serves the type of gently creative Chinese cooking Andly does.
The restaurant is named after its chef and owner, Li Yuekuan, or more accurately, his English nickname. Born in the province of Anhui in China’s east, Yuekuan – or Andly, if you prefer – began cooking at 17 and travelled around the country learning the finer points of China’s regional cuisines. After working throughout China and Thailand, Yuekuan moved to Perth where he opened the restaurant bearing his name at the bottom of an inner-city apartment block.
Dinner at Andly is set-menu only. Reservations are essential, not because of the room’s size but because Yuekuan tailors a menu for each table. Dinner starts at $65 per person for four courses and goes upwards from there with quality and scarcity of ingredients dictating each guest’s buy-in.
Yuekuan enjoys taking traditional Chinese flavours and sharpening and refining them for guests. A similar approach informs the restaurant’s aesthetic and the use of calligraphy brushes, bird cages and vases to beautify the room. Coupled with genteel service, it’s an ideal backdrop for one of the more polished Chinese meals on offer in the city.